In this video, I install an OME steering stabilizer. Instructions for this thing are non-existent. Hopefully this is helpful. I ditched the lock washers and feel that thread locker will suffice to hold things in place. Torque values were hard to come by but I settled on 50 ft/lbs for the frame and the tie rod bolts, and 35 ft/lbs for the top bolt on the stabilizer bushing.
Now you’re movin’!!
ReplyDeleteHey Chris- I couldn't see in the video, but you'll want to make sure the boot drain holes are on the bottom of that boot. Great job! That little ball joint tool is sure coming in handy... :-)
ReplyDeleteWhy loctite instead of lock washers?
ReplyDeletesplit lock washers have been proven to be ineffective, and in some cases less effective than just the nut alone. There have been studies done by NASA and the US NAVY that resulted in them not being used in those environments. Now, our application isn't quite as big of a deal, but many times I've used split washers in an automotive setting, they just deform when torqued down. I just don't like them. Since there is evidence to suggest they actually don't help and may possibly hurt, I've quit using them. This is from NASA: "The typical helical spring washer shown in figure 14 is made of slightly trapezoidal wire formed into a helix of one coil so that the free height is approximately twice the thickness of the washer cross section. They are usually made of hardened carbon steel, but they are also available in aluminum, silicon, brome, phosphor-bronze, stainless steel, and K-Monel. The lockwasher serves as a spring while the bolt is being tightened. However, the washer is normally flat by the time the bolt is fully torqued. At this time it is equivalent to a solid flat washer, and its locking ability is nonexistent. In summary, a Iockwasher of this type is useless for locking." https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
ReplyDeleteOh... and this is the NAVY: Naval Ships' Technical Manual, Chapter 75:
ReplyDelete"Although lockwashers may be encountered, using the flat washers with selflocking nuts, self-locking fasteners, self-locking inserts, or thread sealants such as MIL-S-22473 anaerobic compounds is preferable."
o3djeeps [ OVERCLOCK3D Jeeps ] Gotcha, thanks for the info. Will be using loctite from now on.
ReplyDeleteHow do u know if searing stabilizer is good . don't have death wable , when I removed it to replace steering linking it stayed in place .when l watched ur video it made me Wonder
ReplyDeleteHappy New Year
ReplyDeletewhat antenna and mount are on the front of your Jeep?
ReplyDeleteyou should put that metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing on the steering stabilizer, otherwise the bushing wears prematurely, your gonna need some lubricating oil on the sleeve and a press to get it in there, but for longetivity sake, you should do it. Source: I have the OME stabilizer on my JK!
ReplyDeleteI checked that.. the stud does NOT fit through that metal sleeve, so even if I get it into the bushing, which is logical, the stud doesn't go into it. :-) The stud, however, is a VERY tight fit into the bushing itself.
ReplyDeletethats bizzare, maybe its different for the TJ? I have no idea, my sleeve is in the bushing, although i reused my factory hardware.
ReplyDelete